VW Bus westfalia solar install (tight space)
Our campervan solar installation was not as straightforward as you can imagine, but i call it a success with the very small amount of space that we had to deal with.
We finally did it! the solar panels are mounted on the pop-top and the overall system is rock solid, let us guide you through our custom-made and powerful solar install.
check out our videos or read the entire post .
this is not our first solar powered system, but this is such a good upgrade.
For a long time, wiring any type of electrical install in my bus totally scared me, the main reason was probably that time when my back seat caught on fire after the main (unprotected ) battery touched the metal springs of the bench and ignited the horsehair that it was made out of.. luckily I was in the bus at that time and after a quick fight with my fire extinguisher the fire was controlled and the interior was pretty much ruined ( aka covered with that white fire extinguisher powder) .
So as you can imagine, my level of confidence at that time for DIY electrical installation was pretty much non-existent.
This is why I opted at that time for a plug and play solution, a Kodiak from inergy, which is basically a battery with an inverter and a lot of input and output packed in a metal box, giving you a simple system ( power solar generator), not too heavy, and reliable system overall.
This system worked really well for us for a couple of years ( charging phones and laptop, plugging fans and night lights but some output components started to fail after a while, the fan started to be noisy and the overall battery life was not to my expectations. The constant monitoring game of how much power we have left was getting old. Not a deal-breaker but definitely not a reassuring feeling especially when you travel with small kids.
A couple of examples of what frustrated me with this previous system :
-During Descend on bend 2019, I drove for a good 9 hours total, camping for a night on the way there, trusting my system at the time, I plugged my small Dometic fridge on the 12v bus plug while driving and switched to the battery at night, everything was working and I was super excited. Arriving at Descend, I was pretty proud of my system and my 150W mobile flexible solar panel and went on to set up camp. At that time I was strongly believing that it would do the trick.
Unfortunately, after the first night where I left a Led light stripe on for 6 hours and my fridge plugged in all night, my battery started to drain really fast the next morning despite my best effort to place my solar panel facing the sun, leaving me with absolutely no power for the next 3 days. there was just not enough energy going in versus what was consumed.
I was very surprised and pretty much disappointed with my lack of planning at that point. Luckily I was able to leave my food in other campers’ fridges and enjoyed a truly off-grid couple of days.
–The second disappointing moment was in December of 2020, I just installed my diesel heater at that time and was super excited to spend a night out in a below-freezing environment, things went well for the first 4 hours , I was cooking, warming up my camper with my brand new system and enjoying a warm and cozy space while the snow was covering my windows, a truly amazing and heartwarming moment.
Around 4 am, I woke up pretty cold and looked at the diesel heater, I immediately thought that something was wrong with it, but to my surprise, my fully charged battery was now completely dead and was unable to deliver any juice to the diesel pump. I learned pretty quickly that the cold temperature played a major role in this situation.
Once again, I felt pretty dumb and hopeless as I didn’t plan correctly or made any research regarding the effect of temperature on batteries before trying it out .. you live you learn. isn’t?
step 1 – finding what our needs are in term of overall power and hardware.
There is definitely a lot of options regarding solar installs these days, from the portable, foldable, flexible, plug-and-play or full-on hard-wired systems, you have a full array of possibilities to harness power from the sun (or else) and deliver it to your small habitat.
So, after experiencing those unforgettable fails, I went on a quest for a new and improved system and started to put together a list of appliances and what type of energy it would require, how to replenish the system reliably and how much space it would take ( our bus is a really small space considering that we most often sleep 4 people in it ( me, Audrey and my 2 kids ) and a french bulldog too.
this is the list of things that we charge constantly and use daily during camping trips with their respective power consumptions.
- fridge ( Dometic CFX 28 12v) 0.75Ah/h or 9 watts…..Draws about 60 watts when running on 12volt. Total is about 280 watt hours per day
- diesel heater
- laptop
- drone
- cell phones-ipads
- lights
- portable speaker
- fans
step 2 – imagine scenarios, measure twice .
The internet is full of amazing looking setups, with sometimes 4 or 5 batteries and a full array of solar panels, with perfectly aligned cables and fuses.. but let’s be real, you have to take in consideration 2 main things, your budget and the space that you have to install this system ( batteries do take some space, and other elements such as a solar controller or inverter need their own secured, protected and vented space to prevent any issue later on)
it’s like remodeling a bathroom..kind of.
If you remodel a bathroom, you want to create a unique space that makes you feel great in the morning (and at night), a space that is inviting yet comfortable with dedicated space for your accessories, and some convenient spots to plug in your appliance.
You want it to be safe and cozy but you also have to deal with those old plumbing placements and usually have to make the best of it with some heavy constraints.
This is pretty much for me a good analogy of what an electrical install feels like when you are not starting from an empty van shell, how and where am I going to create a cozy and practical setup based on this existing architecture and elements? where can I place or hide those elements so the space is comfortable, visually pleasing, and convenient?
After drawing a simple schematic of the basic elements it was time to do some more research.
Understanding the basic features of a solar powered system
1. Solar Panels: The main building blocks of a Solar energy power system are solar panels. They are the units that trap the sun’s solar radiation and converts it to electricity
2. Energy storage system (house batteries): Energy storage is a vital part of stand-alone systems, Deep cycle batteries are usually applied for this purpose – batteries that can withstand repeated charge and discharge cycles
3. Charge controllers: Charge controllers are DC-DC converters that are used in stand-alone solar power systems to convert the solar panel’s variable electrical output voltage to a fixed voltage output that can be used to charge a battery. Most charge controllers use Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT), a system that tracks ambient conditions, such as irradiance and temperature, and provides a safe and reliable power input.
4. Inverters: Inverters are DC-AC converters that are used to convert DC voltage produced by the Solar panels to AC voltage to supply alternating current loads, this inverter will provide a 120 V power source to plug your everyday electronics.
5. Cables: The overall performance of Solar electricity supply systems is strongly dependent on the correct choice of the cables, length, and diameter can greatly reduce the efficiency of your system,
6. Fuses and circuit breakers: safety is definitely first on this type of installation, Fuses and circuit breakers are used to protect the wiring from getting too hot and also protect all devices connected in the system from catching fire or getting damaged if a short circuit occurs.
flexible vs Rigid solar panels
Rigid solar panels are the industry standard, have been around for decades, can stand up to all kinds of weather, they are many options to mount them, and can be oriented easily toward the sun if you plan your system correctly. you will most certainly be required to drill holes to attach the mounting frame that they require. but if you are thinking long term and you have the surface for it, they are a sure choice.
Flexible panels can conform to a wide variety of surfaces, provide the same power output, and weigh a fraction of their rigid panel cousins. yet they are more expensive. with flexible panels, you have the ability to stick them on ( with tape or caulk ) or to attach them to a frame , they will be a lot more sleek looking (Their profile is extraordinarily low, only 0.08 inches thick) but will age faster than the rigid ones if not installed or vented properly ( you will need to create some air channels under your panel to prevent them from getting too hot) . At this point it’s really a choice of available space and amount of necessary modification to your rig roof, versus cost… as they are both equal in performance.
step 3 – the battle plan
After all this research and a good understanding of our needs in terms of power and limitation of space, it was time to go ahead and make it a reality
the system is consisting of:
W 12v flexible mono-crystalline solar ( Renogy) – the pop-top being curved, this was an obvious choice, and after measuring the overall available space, 3 panels was the maximum I could install up there.
2x 12v 100Ah smart lithium iron phosphate battery (Renogy), those batteries are very expensive, but there is a good reason for it, they are very reliable, extremely powerful for their size/weight ratio ( help save space and overall added weight), they don’t contain any toxic and harmful heavy metal elements and substances such as lead, mercury, and cadmium ( i wanted to get the safest system possible ), they require no maintenance, they have internal processors that provide short circuit, overcharging and over-temperature protection while maintaining a balanced voltage across all cells, they also have an integrated activation switch that let you turn them off for storage ( shelf mode) so they don’t self-discharge and have a longer lifespan overall.
1DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC Onboard Battery charger (Renogy), in the PNW the sun can be hot and beautiful in those summer months, but having the capability to charge the batteries while driving ( with the alternator as an additional source of power) was definitely a must-have for me, knowing that you would be reaching basecamp with a fully charged system..
1000W pure sine wave inverter ( Renogy) .. being able to plug and charge my 120 V laptop chargers, drone batteries and remote control, cameras, or whatever else we might need was definitely a must-have.
A 12 v fuse box – this is where the fridge, diesel heater, USB and 12-volt plugs, as well as stationary lights or fan, would be plugged in. what I also like about this box is the opportunities that it promises, all those empty slots for whatever I want to plug in later .. I like that.
A multiple switches control panel – having the ability to turn things on and off, like the fridge or the diesel heater overall system is an added piece of mind. vampire drain is something that doesn’t really matter during those very sunny summer months, approaching fall and winter though, i will have to keep an eye on every component’s consumption and select what I really need.
T-2 Bluetooth module – a simple module that gives you charging info directly on your phone.
step 4 – the install
The pile of parts, pretty boxes, cables, and operating manuals .. beautiful yet scary at first.
As I said earlier, I’m confident with my choices ( most of the time) but when it comes to safety ( brakes, engine, electrical ) .. i don’t really trust myself to do the best job .. this is where I called my buddy Melvin ( Vantastic westy ) who installed many electrical systems on multiple platforms successfully.
On a very hot Sunday, we planned to install the entire setup and succeeded.
installing the solar panels
Despite the super hot sun on my head, this part was the easiest, planning ahead is important, knowing the orientation of each panel and figuring out the necessary wiring involved is super important if you are trying to keep things organized and clean.
We used some Gorilla glue and double-sided gorilla tape on each corner to secure the panels. it is important to create some channels underneath to let some airflow, this will prevent overheating the panels on a very hot day.
front panel, gorilla tape 
channels are created to allow airflow 
planning and measurement
We also use some foam parts from the packaging to place underneath the panels in the roof cavities, (Melvin’s trick right there), when the panels are hot they can soften and will try to conform to the underneath surface, without those foam blocks, the panel could bend and short on a very hot day.
the panels are mounted on a pop-top ( fiberglass), I drilled a couple of holes in the middle of the roof, it was important to plan ahead as the pop-top moves up and down and i wanted to make sure that it will not create too much tension on the cables.
A simple solar weatherproof entry module was added and glued on to prevent any water leakage.
This type of install is not a solution if you are planning to take those panels down or if you are unsure about positioning in general, the glue will definitely leave a mark if you have to change a panel or if you decide to take them down for any reason. i opted for this strategy as i took some serious time to think about placement, and i’m confident about those panel quality and longevity, here is what it looks like after assembly
To visually clean up the installation I decided to create a protective channel out of a PVC tube, I cut it in half, melted it slightly to be able to bend it in shape to conform to the roof curvature, cut a couple of holes for cable entry, and taped it with gorilla white tape so it would be easier to take down for any eventual future maintenance.
cut the PVC tube in half ( lengthwise) 
warm it up so you can bend it to the roof curvature 
tube bended 
drill or cut the necessary opening for cables 
finished part 
test fitting 
I use gorilla tape to fix it in place 
clean and organized solar panels cables
secure the batteries
I custom-made the entire interior of my van, so when I planned to install 2 batteries, it was important to check if my current setup would be big enough for them, it was unfortunately not. that box is made out of wood and features an upper area where we placed our cutlery, toothbrushes, soap, and other every day. For some reason, I left an empty area on the back when I made that original box. a perfect spot to use for the upgrade.
After a couple of hours of dirty woodwork, i created a secured and vented area for the battery to stay in.
the back of the box need to be cutted to fit the batteries 
building a wood tray to secure the batteries in place 
the view from above 
bent a home vent grill to protect from elements
I made sure to create the space to secure the battery on the left so there will be enough space to mount the solar charger on the right side, I was confident that it would be tights but there will be enough space to mount the entire system in there.
installing the solar controller
The solar controller is pretty much the heart of the installation and requires a lot of wiring ( in and out) it also should be mounted pretty close to the battery to prevent any power loss from the cable length, Melvin carefully measured everything before fixing it in to allow all the electric cables to fit in without bending too much. I think we broke a record for the proximity of module/ battery on this one.
using the 4 sides of the box as the mounting area turned out to be the trick to make it work, the result is clean and organized, but pretty hard to access. it is important to plan ahead and plug those cables in the right spot before placing the batteries as they will prevent you to do a safe and clean job ( in this tight area ), most people mount this module by itself and give it plenty of space around so they can install the cables afterward .. probably a good idea but space was extremely limited here.
the solar controller in place 
melvin ( @vantasticwesty ) making magic happen 
planning the wiring in this very tight space is no joke.
installing the power inverter
The power inverter is a pretty big module, it requires some space for venting and only 2 cables and a fuse to be placed inline, after a lot of exploration I decided to mount it on the back of the driver seat, this turned out to be a tight space that was unused, pretty safe from bumps and liquid and would provide easy access for future maintenance, I decide to put the “blue side” with the 120v plugs toward the cabin to keep things clean and easy to access.
inverter tucked behind the driver seat 
view from the front seat 
accessible when you fold the front driver seat
wiring , circuit breaker and tight spaces
Fully understanding and planning your installation is crucial here, as I said earlier it is always nicer to keep the cable length at a minimum, and cutting those cables to the exact length really cleans up the install and makes your overall system a lot safer.
one of the circuit breaker ( there is 3 of them ) 
i can move the box away from the wall and access the back if needed front view when drawer opened , clean for the amount of space we had to deal with 
Melvin turning the system on ( good perspective to see the size of the box )
Melvin spent a pretty good amount of the day planning those cable routing and installation, placing carefully a total of 3 circuit breakers to be able to first protect the system from overheating, but those modules would also give me the opportunity to turn each part of the system on and off depending on my needs by switching them on and off. MAking those switches somehow accessible was not as easy as it looks and I can’t thank him enough for what he accomplished there.
installing the master control panel
Now that the system seemed solid, it was time to plug in some of the components that would be powered by this system as well as some control elements.
this is where the fuse box comes into place, the battery is providing 12 v, and you can use this connection and split it between multiple components, the fuse box does just that and protect the overall system by placing a fuse between your diesel heater and the rest of the system, for example, keeping things safe and organized.
Having all of your components plugged in is nice, but you don’t need them to draw power when they are not in use, or maybe you just want to make sure some of those components are not plugged in for safety reasons, this is where the control panel comes into place, I decided to go with a 5 switch control panel, where I would be able to switch lights, fridge, diesel heater, fans, and USB panels separately, giving me peace of mind and a sense of accomplishment at the same time.
inside the seat 
the fuse box ( plenty of opportunities to plug new components) 
the final result , clean and organized
2 additional modules are also installed on that master control panel, the remote for the inverter, this( the inverter) is definitely not something I want to keep plugged in if I don’t use it, and a display control unit for the solar controller, this is actually redundant with my Bluetooth module and I’m still experimenting to find the best way to get a full overview of powers in vs powers out. ( i will update this page once if find the ultimate solution)
step 5 – test, improve, enhance.
testing the system
it’s alive 🙂
yes ! after a full day of hard work, the system is working, basic for some but such an achievement for me, everything seems to be safe and secured, it’s accessible and it looks actually pretty amazing. (IMO)
adding components
now that the fuse box is in place I still have a lot of opportunities to plug things in and create the perfect combination of elements for both winter and summer camping.
FANS: my plan is to hardwire a fan or 2 for those long road trips, this 1973 beast has no AC, and the custom-made water cooling radiator is conveniently placed in front of the original event intake, so you can imagine that it can get toasty in there. adding a fan in the front would definitely improve our driving situation and make it sometimes more “fresh.
The same idea for the back of the bus, kids are usually on the back seat, and opening a window can be super noisy and not entirely ideal for long road trips, especially on the highway. so I am planning on installing a couple of fans in the back for this very situation, the same fans will be used at night to circulate air around the bed area, it will help cool the space down in winter, and will circulate the hot air from the diesel heater in winter. right now I am experimenting with a small double USB fan to find out the most ideal spot for those. ( I’ll update thiS post when those will be installed )
LIGHTS: we really love our lanterns ( we have 2 ) but sometimes we have to split between indoor and outdoor usage and while we use them constantly, they can run out of battery at the most unfortunate moment, this is why I want to hardwire couple led spots inside the van, to be able to light up the space at a press of a button, this is really a plan at the moment as I am still looking for the perfect spot and the type of light ( warm) that we need.
120V PLUG: at the moment, we have 2 of them, they are conveniently placed behind the driver seat on the inverter, my goal is to hide those and wire them
learning about power in vs consumption
understanding your consumption vs production ratio is essential, but unfortunately, this is where I’m still struggling.
So far I’ve been able to successfully understand the amount of electricity that was going in, both from the solar panels as well as from the alternator when driving, this is possible thanks to the Bluetooth 2 module from renogy, but at this time I’m still struggling to see my consumption in real-time, and this is something I’m working on.
At the moment I plugged my Bluetooth module into the charge controller, this gives me a good understanding of how much power I still have, the house battery volts, charging amps and charging watts, the starter battery Volts, and the total kWh generated, it also keeps an eye on the battery temperature.
basic infos ( no infos about charging time yet ) 
more basic infos ( while driving) 
interesting infos about power getting in and temperatures ( while driving)
Test number 2 – Plugging and the renogy BT 2 and linking the 2 smart batteries with an ethernet cable.
After plugging the Bt2 module into the charge controller, i did some research and found out how to plug the same module into the smart battery bank.
You will need a small ethernet cable ( Cat 5 or above ) and connect the LINK port to the former battery to the UP port of the ladder battery. This will allow them to communicate together and will give you some reliable Infos on both batteries as well as being able to monitor the battery bank.
this setup brings a totally different display on the Renogy home app, with some very interesting Infos such as time/ energy left in the bank, energy in and out.
I wish there was a way to get all the infos from the solar controller and the battery bank in one app, but i think you will need to plug another module ( BT1) and switch from one module to another on the app.
I will do more testing and will update this post.
step 6 – enjoy the ride
I have to say…being able to enjoy those family moments, knowing that your food and drinks are fresh, your electronics are fully charged and ready to capture those wonderful memories, that you can enjoy unique storytime under a warm light source with your kids and even warm up the space when you get out of the outside shower or if it’s chilly outside, it is truly empowering and relaxing.
Knowing that this power is mostly harnessed from the sun is kinda magical and really provides a feeling of comfort and safety to our family. we love the outdoors and we love to bring our kids on unique and memorable adventures, and this solar-powered system really helps us going further, for longer periods of time and this will totally contribute to creating those ever-lasting memories of ongoing PNW exploration.
disclaimer _ this post is not a paid advertising, it reflects my own experience and feedback on the solar system I installed, after approaching them, Renogy did offer me some additional products from my original purchase so I could test them and provide feedback and imagery. i thank them very much for this opportunity.
